Ive had several BSA'a and always had good luck with them. I made a topic to jimh in guns and ammo and put a good cheap way to float the barrel on the handi-rifles. You might wanna check it out it makes a big difference.
Thank you i will check it out. I also have not had any problems with BSA scopes except for one... i put a 4x8x32 on my slug gun and it didnt hold up LOL not the scopes fault i guess but i havent had any probs with the others.
I also have 1 NCstar scope on my 10/22 havent shot it yet but it has a nice crisp view and it was also affordable.
Ive got an NCstar with the iluminated reticle on my 22 mag. Its an alright scope but for some reason when trying to shoot the orange target dots you cant see the lines on the dots its just an orange blurr.But good luck though bud.
guys i'm telling ya, if you need a cheap scope that will hold up and track and have decent optics especialy when zoomed in, look at a Mueller. if you have the bucks and can afford a leupold or 4200 elite or such go for it. but if you have to pinch pennies, give them a look.
don't take just my word on it. check out the responces on rimfirecentral, savageshooters and several others. you get good sharp image to the edges of glass on the high power setting, along with good tracking and repeatabilaty. eye relief is good but does get a little criticle on the higher (above 16x) power setting. nothing you can't live with. again it is an option for those who can't afford the upper line scopes. clarity and brightness on my eradicator 8.5x25x50 exceeded my bushnell 3200 elite, when viewed at similar power settings.oh, and they will hold up to anything you strap it on to.
warrenty is good, and i'll tell ya something else. they are the only scope mfr. that actualy post responces on some of the other sites. over on rimfire they where wanting a scope specificly taylored to rimfire target shooting. well they have one coming out in april, he took all our complaints and wishes and came up with a new scope. he has sent the prototype to a couple of guys and after their comments, is makeing the changes and is now getting ready to come out with it. i'll be buying one for my .22 when they hit the market at about 89.00. if you have a problem with a scope send it in and they will replace it.just as long you haven't abused it and if you had if you are honest about it you will probably get another one anyway.
Yeah i dont ever turn the light on. im talking about shooting it without the light on.My NCStar is just clear as can be but when i was sighting in my mag the other day i was shooting the one inch stick on dots with targets on them. When i put the crosshairs on the dots it was just a fuzzy blur. I tried it on all the powers and it still was. But like i said it is good and clear when your not trying to shoot at a really small target. And thats kinna why im scared of them. But that problem may just be with my NC star. I got it on agun and it was used so theres no telling. i just kinna figured it was partly due to the green haze these IR scopes have with the light off. Do these scopes have that green haze?
uh if you are saying the crosshairs where fuzzy then you need to learn how to tune a scope to YOUR eye. this gets the ocular set so you can see the cross hairs. this is done at the back of the scope. once that is done then if you're shooting a AO model you need to focus it for that distance. when you focus for a distance you want the power turned all the way up, so if it is a 8x25x50 scope you would set the power at 25, adjust the objective lens to the dist. shooting then turn the power down if you want and all should be clear and focused. i would bet you have not tuned the scope to your eyes. i'll post a link to rimfire where they will walk you through all of this if you want.
edit: rocko, no green haze, i'm telling you straight they are clear optics, you will be very impressed, pleased. if you where around here i would let ya take a peek through mine.
ok, i'm steeling this from rimfire, please don't snitch on me.
Setting Up a new scope:
1. Inspect for any damage.
2. Are the AO and Power controls smooth when turned?
3. Does the image appear bright and clear [the AO must be set for the actual distance to the image]?
4. Focus the ocular lens on the reticle for your eye; not all eyes are equal, and this must be done. If you normally wear corrective lenses while shooting, then wear your glasses for this step. If you wear glasses for reading, but not shooting, then leave your glasses off for this step. When focusing the ocular lens, first look off into the distance for about a minute [so your eye accommodates to distance], and then quickly look through the scope at a blank surface [wall or sky]; is the reticle clear and crisp? If not, adjust the ocular lens 'out' 1/2 a turn, and then repeat; if it is better, then give it another 1/2 turn 'out'; if not, give it a full turn 'inwards'; repeat until you have a clear and crisp image of the reticle [ignore what the target looks like]. Remember, each time look off into the distance for about a minute before looking through the scope...... THIS IS IMPORTANT
5. Adjusting the AO for target shooting: This should be done when you are at the range [or the place where you shoot]; initially, set the Power to its highest level, and turn the AO ring to the 'marked' range at which you are shooting; if your target is at 50 yards, then turn the AO ring to "50 Yards"; now look at your target through the scope: is it clear and crisp? If not, turn the AO ring ever-so-slightly to the left or right until your target is clear and crisp. Now, set the Power to the desired level. DONE, until you change your shooting distance.
6. Adjusting the AO for hunting: This should be done just before you enter the area to be hunted; set the AO ring for the range at which you 'expect' see game: squirrels - 50 yards; woodchucks - 100 yards, etc..
7. For Non-AO scopes [rimfire and air gun], steps #5 and #6 are omitted.
8. Sighting-in the scope is a separate issue.
AO = Adjustable Objective [the BIG lens up front]: The AO is used to focus the 'image of the target'.
Ocular = The eye piece of the scope [at the back end]: The ocular is used to focus the 'image of the reticle'.
If your 3-9X scope does NOT have an AO, and you are trying to use it at 50 yards, you probably have +/- 1/2" or more of parallax; centerfire [big game] scopes are focused at the factory for 100 to 150 yards, the normal ranges at which they will be used. When mis-applied to a rimfire rifle, parallax results, as most rimfire ranges are less than 100 yards......
If your 3-9X scope does NOT have an AO, and you are trying to use it at 50 yards, you probably have +/- 1/2" or more of parallax; centerfire [biggame] scopes are focused at the factory for 100 to 150 yards, the normal ranges at which they will be used. When mis-applied to a rimfire rifle, parallax results, as most rimfire ranges are less than 100 yards......
Yeah the eye relief is set right i just think this is the problem. I was trying to shoot a 1" dot at 30 yards. The crosshairs are clear its just the small target itself wasnt clear.I have AO scopes on several of my guns but this is just a straight 3-9-40. I never even thought about the clarity being set for 100 but that makes sense. The main thing i was worried about is the green haze. But ill take your word for it. Im fixin to put the single shot 223 to rest and buy a new accutrigered savage to replace it. I have been looking at the Muellers on e-bay and i think that is gonna be the ticket to top it. Thanks for all the help. When i get it all situated i will post up aome pics. But i cant seem to find the length of the warranty im assuming the have a lifetime but im just overlooking it. Got any info??
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