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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rocky Mountain \"Ivory\" and Iron

:soapbox:
I haven't attached a knife lately! I've been busy!
Here's a new one.
I had an elk tine that was sun bleached on one side, so I removed the entire exterior to expose the "ivory" inside!
Guard and butt cap are forged from 1903 wrought iron.
Blued pommel nut.
My traditional take-down construction.
Blade fully forged from 1" square 5160 and heat treated by the method I learned from Ed Fowler at Willow Bow.
 

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Wow, you sure are talented! Very nice knife!

How long does it take to make one of those things?
 

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Very nice lookin knife there!!
:cheers::cheers:

How much would one of those bad boys cost me??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, it IS sharp!
And thanks for the nice compliments.
All blades are fully tested for cutting ability and edge retention before they leave my shop. Actually, before they even get made into a knife! If they don't pass my tests, they don't get finished. Period.
Someone asked me about price.
I need to make something clear.
I'm not on this nice Forum to sell knives. You guys have welcomed me in, and I appreciate that.
I'll be moving to Missouri this Spring and just need a new "place" to hang out.
I'm a custom knife maker.
That's what I do.
It's how I eat and pay the bills.
When I found this site, I was happy to find some people who enjoy the Great Outdoors as much as I do, and also saw there was almost nothing to do with Knives and Cutlery.
So, I decided to make some posts of hand-crafted stuff for you guys to see.
I hope you enjoy them.
I'm not putting knives on here "For Sale" because I don't think that is what this Forum is for.
If these pictures give someone the urge to discuss owning a knife from Andersen Forge, it's easy to figure out how to contact me and we can pursue business in a professional manner through personal email.
I don't want to get kicked off of here for taking advantage of anything!
Thanks guys.
 

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Actually there is a for sale forum here and I for one sir know there are those of us who do sale items on there. You are talented, let us benefit from it!
:wave:
BTW, sure is nice to see your pics!
 

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Prices, you don't need no stnkn prices! You know what they say; If you have to ask, well then! Good morning Mr. Rat!
:wave:

Pricing is on his web site.
 

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Sweet. I would love to see pics of others you have made. ........:cheers:
 

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wow another nice one.

if i may ask a question (it could be a stuipid one but i aint scared)

what advantages are there for owning a "take down" style of knife? i mean what makes them better than a solid one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I didn't say it made them better.
A take-down bow isn't necessarily "better" than a one piece. It just offers flexibility.
I can take this apart and work on just the blade if necessary, without screwing up another part of the package.
Remember, my knives are forged simple carbon blades.
NOT! stainless steel.
I have done a lot of studying, learning and researching to be able to make what I call knives that are approaching "High Performance."
I don't make Department Store knives.
I want a knife that will be handed down to your GRANDCHILDREN! and perform 50 years from now as well as it does today.
So!
That means we need to take care of this new knife.
It'll rust if neglected.
Just like that $1500.00 huntin' rifle you got! It'll rust, too, if neglected, but it costs that much because somebody put the time into it to make sure it will PERFORM! when you want it to.
When somebody takes a hard earned vacation and spends a LOT! of money to head to the mountains and they have a 900 pound $3000.00 elk on the ground, and they're miles from anywhere, are they gonna trust the work to a $25.00 knife? Nope.
My knives can be maintained so that when needed, they'll be there to get the job done.
So, they come apart.
Clean 'em up.
Oil em' up.
Make sure they're ready.
To hold one of these in your hand, you wouldn't even know they come apart.
I learned this process from a fellow who has been making knives for 30 years.
He told me I should make ALL of my knives take-down.
I don't. But, I do make a lot of them that way.
It is very time consuming, and I have to charge for that.
It's a $100.00 extra just for that option.
It actually takes me most of a day to create just the take-down assembly!
I'm looking for a new bow.
Being a traditional shooter, that's about $1000.00 - minimum!
And, it'll be a take-down.
 

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Another nice knife!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I use 5160 because of a particular "find" I made this year.
I ended up with about 3000 feet of a dimension of steel that you can't get unless you were to have a mill make a special order run for you. I got lucky.
I can use 52100 also, it's just a little more expensive.
I forge my knives according to the philosophy that the farther you move the steel from its beginning dimension to its finished dimension, the greater the possiblity for high performance and toughness, providing specific forging temperatures and techniques are followed.
I know for a fact that there are countless knifemakers out "there" that take a 1/4" thick bar of steel, heat it up and bang a point on it, and say they "forged" the knife.
Whatever.
Very little thermal cycling has occured. Very little opportunity for grain refinement.
It takes me approximately 1 1/2 hours to forge a blade.
All of my blades are currently forged from stock that is 1" square. And, they are forged "to shape"! That includes blade spine taper, (distal taper), spine to cutting edge taper, ricasso area, guard shoulders and hidden tang.
I also got to thinking when I was in the shop and after that last post I made, that even though this might sound strange, I would not use that knife in the photo to dress an elk. Or a deer!
It would do it, and do it WELL!
I just can't imagine getting that thing bloody!
I make other knives for that.
You can't beat man-made materials for 'Every Day Carry' and hard use handles.
The point is, that EVERY knife I make is made by the formula that results in a knife that will PERFORM.
Does that make sense?
I have held a $10,000.00 knife in one hand and a $6,000.00 knife in the other.
Now, more than likely, neither one of those knives will ever cut anything. They will more than likely spend their lives in a safe.
Yet, I know the maker and I know for a fact the each one of those knives was made to extremely high tolerances and technique that you could use those knives in life-threatening situations and know that they would not let you down.
See where I'm coming from?
That knife in the photo would be for someone who has a lot more disposable income than me! I would probably put that knife on my belt and wear it to a bow shoot or something.
Put it on top of the TV for visitors to see.
But! If I had to bug-out some day and needed to grab a knife on the way out, I could grab that knife and know my life could depend on it.
I make 'em all the same.
Or they don't get sold.
Anyway, yes, 52100 is good steel.
I have a long-time knifemaking friend that always says "Jesus could send down a bar of steel from Heaven, but it's no better than the Heat Treatment it gets."
Any maker can use any kind of steel, but if he doesn't forge and heat treat it correctly, it's no better than a knife you get at a swap meet.
I need to quit rambling and head back to the shop.
 

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Makes alot of sense KBA! 5160 is a really good Steel as well. Can't go wrong with it or 52100. You know what your doing... :cheers: I'll have to give one of your Knive's a try in time. When I get some spare money, I'll give ya a holar. Cool you're moving to MO. I'm down here in Southeastern part of the State. I like to hunt towards the west of me though. More Deer in the Hill's. I'm right near the line where the Hill's and Flatland's meet.
 
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