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Jenny's Lackey
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These are going to make you sweat just looking at them.

Talk about working my :moon: off. Took me 3 different jags 2-4 hrs each so far with about 1/2 day left just to get it opened back up. Gonna ring the big hickorys, elms & other trash trees around the peremeter to allow more sunlight in here. Still gotta get 1000# of lime down. Sprayed everything a week ago with roundup.

This area had been clear at one time, just not sure why, but it's been at least 15-20 years from the looks of those red cedars. I'm gonna leave them in there because I'm gonna try to establish it in clover starting this fall. Probably plant WW/oats/rye as well as the clover. Should make a great kill plot. It's way deep inside the middle of my timber. Half mile from where I park. Closest through road is 3/4 mile away from this plot, next closest is 1 1/2 miles.
 

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Which clover variety are you gonna use? You are one hard worker Randy!
 

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Jenny's Lackey
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I imagine ladino & red mix. Something I can pick up at the local coop. I know a lot of guys at QDM says that deer don't like red clover, but I've had real good luck with it. It grows fast & tolerates lower ph, which is what I'm starting with I'm sure.

Thayer, all I've ever known is hard work. It don't scare me a bit.
 

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Wow, I got blisters just looking :bangin: That is gonna pay off big time I betcha. :eek:
 

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Randy....a couple considerations for you...

You have cut off/mowed a lot of woody vegetation. They will resprout and be a bugger to control. You have a couple choices...one, go as you plan with Clover and whatever and fight the good fight long term with the woody stuff.

You probably had poison ivy, grape vines, locust/hedge/hackberry/hickory/oaks...the normal Missouri brush possibly some multiflora rose and others. Probably buckbrush as well

If you were to spray the brush as it recovers, your results will be mixed. This is cause the tops will be too small to gather enough chemical to kill a big root system.

A suggestion would be to opt out of clover and go to a grass/brassica/buckwheat for the first couple years. This gives you time to treat the sprouts individually as they come back, less invested in seed, time to soil test, lime and fertilize. That also allows you to time your work a bit differently...You can plant the wheat/oat/brassica/buckwheat Aug 1 or thereabouts. It will do great for the deer and provide great bugging in spring for the Turks...you allow the wheat to mature and about July 1 blast it with Roundup..this will set back a lot of the woodys but not usually kill em plus you will clean a lot of weed issues and fescue out. Then Retreat if need be, burn/, till and replant in August to start over. Do this for a couple or three years and by then you will have a better idea of the potential for the plot.

One issue Ive seen others have to deal with is shade. If the area was overgrown as yours was, that means back in the day before when it was cleared, likely that it didnt get enough sun to grow a lot of grass and forbs so the brush came on big time. That being the case, your attempts to grow stuff will be a challenge.

To deal with that you can cut down perrimeter trees...no fun this time of year...or you can kill individual trees with a basal bark application and open the canopy. May be worth looking into.

Let me know if you need some directions on the how to.
Nice work on your website! Woodworker /furniture builder here as well.
 

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Ok who's the poor guy doing all the work while you're standing around taking pictures ! :roll2:



Looks like it should be a good one.
 

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Pinwheel, Im losing weight just watching!!
Get the sunlight and the ph right and it will grow!
Roundup, Tordon RTU (pathway) and crossbow works great on cut stumps and brush..
good luck!!
 

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Careful with crossbow if you plan to widely broadcast apply..

There is a plantback restriction of grasses and legumes for 12 months if your
soil pH is below 7.

Agree with tobryan though.. good for cut stumps ect.
 

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looks awesome...can't wait to see some trail cam pics from that spot!
 

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Jenny's Lackey
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wooddust,
That was a ton of useful information, Made perfect sense to me. I think I'll follow your advice & opt out on the clover for now & just go with the cereal grains. Your right, everyone of those plants was in there. I haven't been in there since I sprayed it, but imagine I'll have to spray again in a couple of weeks. I've already girdled several of the larger trees & will do the same with the others. Got one big white oak that I can't bring myself to touch. I just hope I can get the time to get it ready before fall. If not, it'll make a great strut zone next spring. Turkeys roost all around this area.

Ok who's the poor guy doing all the work while you're standing around taking pictures !
Hey, I resemble that remark
 

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Girdleing a tree is a ok thing on some species. But, remember when you girdle the tree, it can inspire the tree to sprout new buds at the base and in some species like a black locust, all along the root system. This will be a huge headache long term.

You can effectively kill sellected trees with a basal bark application of Remedy and Diesel. The mix ratio is one part Remedy to 3 parts diesel. You apply it to the bark starting at the base and treat up 15 inches all arund the tree. The trick is to recognize that all you need to do is get the bark treated and not spray till its running off. Most people use far too much. This can be done in any month...as long as we have no snow cover. Its great on trees under 6 inch diameter. If the tree is bigger, apply a relatively equal amont by going higher...in other words a 12 inch tree needs 30 inches treated. If the tree is allowed to stand for a year, you will get a full root kill of the plant. If you cut it down right after defloiation you will possibly cut down the chemical before it gets to the root system...so leave the dead tree alone for a year. The tree may even re leaf. If it does and does not drop the new leaves, re treat the tree.

This sounds too simple. But it works. The only negative is that if the roots of the treeated tree are knitted together with a neighbor tree, it can make the other tree sick for a period of time but rarely will it kill it.


This same mix has been used on cut stumps. But its not nearly as dependable on cut stumps as Tordon RTU or Pathway. Logic says that if it takes a 15 inch treatment to kill a tree, you likely wont get enough chemical on a 3 inch stump and there is less likelyhood the chemical will penetrate the cut surface with diesel as the carrier because diesel and sap( mostly water) wont mix well. Its just false economy on cut surfaces. Crossbow on a cut surface is even less dependable. Thats why Tordon RTU and Pathway are made....exclusively as a cut surface treatment.
 

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Oh pinwheel heck with it, give me your coordinates and Ill buzz by and drop a little agent orange....:roll2:

sorry, lots of good info on this site!!
 
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