Missouri Whitetails - Your Missouri Hunting Resource banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to make a few changes on my bow and I'm having a bit of a problem. First off the old bow needed a new string so I changed it. Then I added D loop string so my release would be pulling directly behind the shaft instead of below it like I did before. I'm using an old tm hunter type rest that has the 2 finger like prongs that point straight ahead and the shaft lays between them. Here's my problem, shooting through paper to see what the shafts doing the point is going in about 1/2" below the vanes. I know I'm suppose to drop the nocking point to fix this but the shaft is already terribly out of square with the string, nock end low. My sights are set so high that they are at the very top of my sight window and actually need to go a little higher . Idropped the rest and it helped a little but then I had to drop the nock and that put the problem right back to where I started. Any suggestions on what I should try to do to fix this problem,its an old Myles Keller XI probably 18 yrs. old but it shoots good and hard yet and hate to spend money I don't have for another.

Here's a picture of 2 bucks I took the other night about a mile from the house.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,

V2
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,005 Posts
Your timing is off, most definatley!!! When you pull your bow back, let off real slow, there will be a part of the cam setting on the string. Look at both the top and bottom cams, and see which one leaves the string first. If one does leave before the other, there's your problem.....Keep me posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ladeerman, I'm sorry I really don't know what you mean. When I draw , the cams appear to be moving the same and they appear to be breaking over at the same time during a slow release is there some way you can check this other then visually. I did check the tiller distance and its the same.
I really appreciate the advice.

Thank you

V2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,005 Posts
That's the only way you can check it. One string can move 1/16" earlier than the other, and it will throw it off. It's adjusted by twisting the opposite cable. Any local bow shop can give it a quick fix for $10 or so. I wish I could tell you how to do it easier, I really would have to put my hands on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just checked the nock point with the rest using my bow square and the nock end is 3/8" below square, and when I was paper shooting it it still needed to be lowered. Does that give you any idea on what cam might be off?

Thanks again,

V2
 

·
Your Local Know It All
Joined
·
7,021 Posts
Here's my advice, don't worry about the paper, back tune it, then group tune it. If it groups well don't worry about the paper tune. I've had bows that paper tuned then didn't group tune for nothin. It's more important how it shoots than if it can punch holes in the paper at point blank range. Just my $.02

BTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the advice, 1 of the reasons I was trying to tune it, was last year it would shoot target points good but broadheads were a different story. I've read that an out of tune bow would do that and that you would never get real true consistence with broadheads. If I can't find some answers I'll go back to target shooting with it and see what I can come up with.

Thank you, I'm heading for the pro shop this afternoon, maybe someone down there will have an idea.

V2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,626 Posts
Heres an easy check to see if your nock and rest is set right.
On your riser right above the shelf the rest sits on is a usually a hole. When you arrow is nocked on the string and sitting on the rest it should center (cover) the hole in the riser when looking at it face on. If any of the hole is showing, move you nock or your loop in this case to where the arrow covers the hole. This is a good starting point, you may have to adjust 1/16th of an inch either way. Make sure you get the bow up eye level when looking. Keep us posted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I finally got back from the pro shop and the feller down there was very helpful. He did a bunch of measuring and checking this and that and when I asked him if the wheels were out of time he said very doubtful. Its more of a round wheel not a cam and the only adjustment that could be made would be to replace the little cables that go from the axel to the end of the cable yoke. He measured those and they were both almost exact. What he ended up doing was replacing the rest with a drop off, and suggested I try carbon arrows , which I did., Then he backed the top limb bolt a half turn and the shafts are flying almost prefectly through paper, just a tiny bit low on the entry maybe 1/8". So as soon as it cools a little this evening I'm going to see what it will do at 20yds. hopefully its good to go. This old bow is probably 18-20 yrs. old and when I seen the prices on the new bows they had, I knew if it couldn't be fixed, it would be time to cut a osage orange limb and get a string, man there high.

Thanks to all for your help, I'll let you know if its still messed up after I shoot a few evenings.

V2
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top