Missouri Whitetails - Your Missouri Hunting Resource banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,071 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put one in layaway for $169, heard it was a very accurate shooter, don't know much about them other than they have improved the trigger. Whoever has one speak up, I am excited about a new squirrel shooter!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,736 Posts
I had a .17HM2, the trigger was, if anything, worse than the previous models on THAT PARTICULAR RIFLE. It didn't shoot for, either, so I sold it to a guy who'd never know the difference. He's as happy as can be with it.

Hope yours is better than mine was, it probably WILL be, as my luck with those just ain't what it oughta be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,055 Posts
The Marlin brand of rimfires are by far the very best on the market in it's price range and double it's price range. I'd rather have the Marlin than savage, ruger, remington, winchester, or cz.

I have both models of bolt actions (pre-900 series and 900).
That being said, the trigger is no improvement and should be in the 6 pound range like the old model. At least the old model had a metal trigger.

It doesn't make any difference anyway because you ought to buy a Rifle Basix trigger and make a sweet gun that much sweeter:pop::pop::pop:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,406 Posts
I have the 917 17hmr and it is a tack driver! Killed a yote with it two years ago callin. One shot at around 75yrds. He made the classic stop and look. Mistake, bang....flop!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,071 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
[rquote=1489434&tid=104009&author=curtism1234]
It doesn't make any difference anyway because you ought to buy a Rifle Basix trigger and make a sweet gun that much sweeter:popRifle Basix trigger ::pop::pop:[/rquote]

Is this what you are talking about?

http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=188

Please tell me more, does it really give you a 2.5lb trigger, shorten it up an such?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,055 Posts
I have them on both of my marlins and I'm very very pleased. :claphands:

You have to mess around with the trigger a bit in order for it to work safely. You basically set your pull weight and then draw up the slack. You'll find that if you draw the slack up too tight on the sear adjustment the trigger will trip itself. So you want to back off just a hair (that will prevent the gun from slamfiring when the bolt is closed). If you back off too much, the trigger will have too much slack.
It may take a dozen times for you to get the right feel. And when you're confident you know that breaking point, locktite it down.

You'll want to monkey around hitting the butt on the ground, cycling the bolt hard, etc.

It leaves you with a nice pull that is safe. There's just a hair of creep (because again it's a fine line between safe and unsafe so you don't want to get too close).

It's worth every penny and there's no reason to take more than 2 hours to do it the first time. I made it sound more intimidating than what it really is.

I'll be buying more of their products in the future, that's for sure.
:woot:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,481 Posts
[rquote=1489711&tid=104009&author=curtism1234]It's worth every penny and there's no reason to take more than 2 hours to do it. Most of the work is getting the feel for the adjustments so you know where you stand for your final locktite adjustment.
:woot:[/rquote]

and if you're even just a step up from a caveman it will probably take you half as long as it took Curtis :stirpot:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,055 Posts
[rquote=1489713&tid=104009&author=JimH][rquote=1489711&tid=104009&author=curtism1234]It's worth every penny and there's no reason to take more than 2 hours to do it. Most of the work is getting the feel for the adjustments so you know where you stand for your final locktite adjustment.
:woot:[/rquote]

and if you're even just a step up from a caveman it will probably take you half as long as it took Curtis :stirpot:[/rquote]

I think the first one took two hours and the second took about 30 minutes since I knew what I was looking for :thinking:

But yeah, a caveman could probably do it an hour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,055 Posts
While you're at it, if you're looking for the best mounts on the market, BKL gets the nod. Again, like the triggers, they aren't cheap but worth every penny. They make several styles that would work with the bolt action. Either the bolt action style in the picture or 2 doublestraps would work good I imagine.
Of course there's nothing wrong with good ol steel weavers either if you can stand the looks of them lol.

http://www.bkltech.com/1x4x0_6_Scope_Rings_Bolt_Action_Unitized_Dovetail_p/bkl-261.htm

This is my 917 with a BKL mount and silver Rifle Basix.

If you're interested in either of these products, the manufacturer seems to have the best prices.

[file]81557[/file]

PS, a Simmons 22mag scope is a heck of a bargain if you're looking for a lightweight 3x9x32 :whistle:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,481 Posts
is that marlin not drilled and tapped on top for weaver style bases?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,736 Posts
Is BKL still in business? I looked around for some a couple of years ago, and I'd heard they'd gone belly-up, but maybe that's old news and they're back in business.......

Marlin's rimfire receivers can be bent or sprung, and those mounts stiffen them up and lessen the chances of that happening. When I couldn't find any BKLs, I went into the stock and bedded my action, as it was in dire need of a stiffening-up job (17V). You could bind up the action just by tightening the stock screws too tight, it would bend the action (like bending a piece of copper pipe). A glass job and some other tinkering fixed all those minor ailments, and that 17V has shot some groups at 100 yards that rival a good centerfire varmint rifle.

Can't figure out a company that would send out a rifle that would be inoperable if you snugged up the action screws.... Mine would bind up if the screws weren't all but loosened up. That's no way to do things........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,481 Posts
glen i had not heard about until now the issues with Marlin. has this always been an issue (weak receivers) or just in th elast couple years?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,055 Posts
The Marlins should be drilled and tapped as well.

BKL went under briefly about a year / year and half ago but then was purchased by someone else. I think they were only closed for a couple months.


I'm thinking of this from memory right now as I don't have the gun in front of me. I don't know how the Marlin action could get bent from the action screws. The front screw screws into that dovetailed lug. That's not going to bind up anything. The other screw is the very back one (I think). If so, I wouldn't think that would bind it up.

Glen, did you have trigger work done to the gun?
Because there's a metal "button" inside the receiver where the bolt goes in. You have to pull the trigger to release that button so the bolt slides into the receiver. If the trigger is set incorrectly (another thing you have to check BukWild), it will not press down that button to give clearance for the bolt.

I'm just wondering if that might be what you're refering to. :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
I bought one off Rollanet last year for $100, 22 mag.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,736 Posts
[rquote=1490061&tid=104009&author=JimH]glen i had not heard about until now the issues with Marlin. has this always been an issue (weak receivers) or just in th elast couple years?[/rquote]

I bought mine in very, very early 2002, (its a 17V HMR), so I suspect it's endemic in the breed. No big deal, really, it was just a pain to get sorted out. I was going to completely bed the action, but Marlin said NOT TO DO THAT, so I tried their suggestion first, leaving the screws loose. That was IMHO, bull muffins, and I finally couldn't live with a 1/2 fast way of doing things, and built a bed for the center of the action, so it wouldn't bend and bind, as it was prone to do. Then I freefloated the barrel and got it running right. I DID pay a gunbutcher $45 to do a trigger job, and he didn't help it a bit, I've just learned to shoot it, poor trigger and all.

Curt, there's a screw that runs up, behind the magazine and into the action, snug it up, and the action will bind up. I had to build a bed for the tang to sit on top of, and build up a "pillar equivalent" for that second screw, so it couldn't bind the action.

Marlin claimed it was bedded like that blue stocked"target" rifle they sold for awhile, snug front screw, and the back of the action just wallows around. Forget THAT, that's reeks of chicken manure, either do it right, or leave it be. I think I did it right, I've shot groups right at a quarter inch with it, after I worked on it.:2thumbsup:

Marlins aren't made of bad steel, but it's not stout stuff, either, and that thin receiver CAN be bent, I suspect it's just steel, and not heat treated like a centerfire rifle would be. No big deal, since it's NOT a centerfire.

BTW, mine was made before they started D&Ting them, it has to be one of the first HMRs to leave their plant. It was in VERY early 2002 when I got it, and the HMR was announced late in '01. It was the first one I saw, so I snagged it up. Once I got it running right, it's become one of my favorite rifles, killing PDs out to 250 yards on really calm days.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top