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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I went ahead and broke down and bought a new Switchback XT and now I can't get it paper tuned. It keeps tearing high and nothing I do seems to make a difference. I moved the nock point down, no change. I let someone else shoot it, no change. I adjusted the spring tension on my drop-away rest, no change. I tried a heavier spined arrow, no change. I'm really confused on this one. Anyone have any thoughts on how to get this thing tuned?

:confused::confused::confused:
 

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humm thats odd seems either moving the nock down or increassing the spring tensoin sure should solve the problem i would be frustrated too


i bet mobowman or some of them guys will have so ideas
 

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Tail high
Fingers or release aid
1. Check wheel timing


2. Move nock point down


3. Check fletching clearance

Tail low
Fingers or release aid
1. Check wheel timing


2. Move nock point up

Tail left
Fingers


Release aid


Fingers or Release aid
Use stiffer shaft


Move rest left


1. Check fletching clearance


2. Experiment with grip

Tail right
Fingers


Release aid


Fingers or release aid
Use weaker shaft


Move rest right


Experiment with grip

Tail high and left
Fingers or release aid
Check fletching clearance


Dont know how far your moved your nocking point down, but you may have to go up to a 1/4". Your rest may not be dropping quick enough and causing a clearance problem.


MoBowman ```---------->
 

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First thing I though of was vane clearance. Especially after your made several of the other prescribed changes.

I applied some old eye makeup or lipstick of my wifes to the edges of my vanes, then when I shot I could see any streaks left behind due to fletching contact.
 

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A good spray on foot powder will also work for this. Spray on the vanes and shoot, contact if any will be obvious.



MoBowman ```---------->
 

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I am not a drop away rest guy so here comes my second question. Is it possible for the drop on the rest to be mis-timed? And what drop away is it? (OK that's three questions now.)
 

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How much is it tearing high? Some people like a high tear. What type of release are you using? Did you try a different release aid? Where you sure when you shot the arrow was perpendicular to the paper when you fired the arrow? I watched a guy mess with his bow for about 45 mins. one night and asked him if I could look at it and try it. He was shooting a pretty good hole but it wasn't perfect. I told him to stand next to me and make sure I had the arrow level. He told me when it was level and it shot a perfect hole. He then tried it and shot a perfect hole. It could be something really small and have nothing to do with the bow. What kind of group were you getting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, I use a d-loop. The rest is a Mathews drop-away. I haven't done the powder test to check for clearance, but just by "eye-balling" it, I don't see how there could be any contact. I guess I still need to give that a try though.

:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 

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I would just let the pro shop mess with it and if they don't get it fixed, I would tell them to send it in. If you spend that much money on a new bow, it should be perfect. I feel your pain!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sad thing is, all of this has been at my local archery shop, with 3 different techs assisting in trying to find a solution. Last thing they told me was, "Just keep shooting it a while and let everything settle in". To me that sounded more like they just wanted me out of their hair since they couldn't figure it out. I have been emailing back and forth with Mathews today and I have some better information now on how to adjust the rest. I'm going to make some adjustments there first, then maybe try a lighter field tip (I was using 100gr, guess I'll try 75gr). After that, I may try backing off the poundage a little.


If none of that works, I guess it's going back to Mathews.

:stickfight::stickfight:
 

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When drawing your bow, at what point does the drop away come up? Should be at the last 2 inches of draw or so. Then when you release it drops a bit quicker. Not real sure on how the Mathews drops are attached, if they are on the "down" cable and hasn't been served in you may try moving the string up or down.

You know we are all just guessing and throwing ideas out here. Try the foot powder and if your not getting any clearance problems, it pretty much has to fall into the nock point or cam timing. Eliminate one possible and then work on the others. Good Luck, I feel for ya.

One thing to remember is this, if you get arrow flight and start shooting good groups, don't try to put to much emphisis on the paper tuning, that in it self can really drive ya batty.


MoBowman ```---------->
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
See, now there's one of the things that I think is a problem. The rest seems to come up pretty early in the draw. According to Mathews, it should be at the last inch of draw. But the goof ball at the archery shop already tied it in to the down cable with dental floss.

:mad::mad::mad:
 

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Remove it, I cant believe that a Pro shop used dental floss to tie it in. If the rest is coming up to soon, it is also dropping to late which will cause contact with the fletchings. It is fairly easy to retie it, but I would move your string up the cable about 1/2-1 inch and see if that doesn't help.


MoBowman ```--------->
 

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DSG's pretty damm stupid when it comes to Drop Aways but he saw that one comin.

Deer_Slayer. Just a side note. My indoor league partner just recently bought a new bow just like yours and had the Mathews drop away installed on it. In order for his bow to shoot well his nocking point seems to be very high, at least it does to me. I can't give you the figures because I don't know. Just throwing it out for you to chew on.

And Dental Floss? :bangin: I feel bad for your negative experience Slayer, it happens all TOO often.
 

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DENTAL FLOSS...ok yeah in a pinch in the field, but at a proshop...that dude needs a Peckerslap from hell
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It doesn't suprise me that his nocking point may seem high to you. The tech at Mathews said that I may need to go 3/8" above level. Right now, the pro shop guys have it below level because I was tearing high. I am becoming really dissappointed with this shop. They are really friendly people, but they seem to be lacking archery knowledge that a pro shop should have. These are the same guys that told me I needed 4" vanes if I was going to hunt because they will stabilize the arrow better outside than the Bohning Blazer vanes. And I was really ticked last night when they told me to just keeping shooting it until it settles in, because I know that is B.S.

:mad2:
 

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"Settles in"....nice. how are you measuring what is level? Since the arrow isnt into it actual shooting position until you are at full draw? I think MoBow may be on to something with the timing of the rise and fall of the prongs on the fall away....do you have another arrow rest there to stick on their real fast?

I would try with prong style rest or a WB to see what kind of tear you get after 20 or so minutes....maybe just that they dont jive together
 

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Have you figured it out yet? I shot a round of 3d last night and looked at my dropaway (Cobra Diamondback w/NAP shelf arrow holder) and mine doesn't come up until the last inch or two of my draw. I think that is probably your problem. I would go ask them to try a different rest to see if that isn't the problem. I don't know this shop you bought your bow from, but it seems that you bought it from a bow shop, instead of a Pro shop.
 
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