Missouri Whitetails - Your Missouri Hunting Resource banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
20,349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since Spring has definitely sprung and high heat and humidity is already amongst us... I was debating on getting ahead of the game with some fungicide treatment this year. I've heard that your better off getting ahead of the game before signs of damage start to show up, than to attempt to play catch up...... so what's the best treatment to use???
 

· Under appreciated
Joined
·
93,225 Posts
Stobularin chemistry is good medicine for fungal pathogens and should have good tolerance to nightshades like maters.
Look for products that have “strobin” in the last part of the active ingredient. Azoxystrobin, pyraclastrobin, trifloxystrobin, etc.
Remember also that there are VERY few if any fungicides that are curative. Once damage is done, its not going to be undone. The only thing you can do is prevent further damage which is going to be coined “preventative”.
Fungal pathogens are difficult to diagnose and prevent and timing is crucial.... unless there is an internet expert on here that can lead you to the promised land. In that case, its best to start a poll. :D
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've been researching the Dr. Earth brand and Serenade ... curious about the hydrogen peroxide suggestion . What's the ratio and application?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Stobularin chemistry is good medicine for fungal pathogens and should have good tolerance to nightshades like maters.
Look for products that have "strobin" in the last part of the active ingredient. Azoxystrobin, pyraclastrobin, trifloxystrobin, etc.
Remember also that there are VERY few if any fungicides that are curative. Once damage is done, its not going to be undone. The only thing you can do is prevent further damage which is going to be coined "preventative".
Fungal pathogens are difficult to diagnose and prevent and timing is crucial.... unless there is an internet expert on here that can lead you to the promised land. In that case, its best to start a poll. :D
No doubt prevention is where it's at if it can be done... it's looking like it's going to continue to be a humid damp growing season this year so I'd like to get some plants treated asap before any type of blight/fungal type of damages presents..
 

· Senior Member
Joined
·
1,533 Posts
1 part milk to 3 parts water has been fantastic on my plants. Plus it gives them other nutrients like calcium. I put it in a spray bottle and spray all my plants.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WBF

· Registered
Joined
·
3,402 Posts
What's the recipe on the peroxide? :)
I talked to the guy that swears by it and he said he had been mixing 1 cup of 3% peroxide to 1 gallon of water and spraying his plants. He said he has been doing this for 2 years now and in October the bottom leaves won't even be brown from blight. He said to make sure it is the cheap 3% peroxide.
 

· Senior Member
Joined
·
1,533 Posts
Does it matter % of fat in the milk? Like skim compared to whole milk??
No it doesn't matter on which kind. Use what you have on hang or what goes bad. I use whole cause that's what I drink. I have very little mold on my plants and any mold i have is on the bottom of my squash and cucumber leaves. I've read good things about peroxide too. Both have other beneficial qualities.

I even add milk with molasses in my soil. Suppose to do great things with the biology of the soil.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How often do your treat them (via spraying) the leaves and plant when your intended purpose is prophylactic? Could a fella top dress the soil around the plant with the added molassess & milk or does this need to be done when the plants are being planted ? Do you have any issues with the milk souring or draw unintended insects such as ants ?? A few of these plants are in pots on our deck next to the house .....
 

· Senior Member
Joined
·
1,533 Posts
When it comes to milk spray solution, I apply it weekly and sometime more if it rains. I'll apply it in the mornings when the sun is starting to hit my plants. There is rarely a smell coming from the plants and most of the time it's because the solution had been a little older. Bottle can get a smell if not cleaned out occasionally.

Anytime I saw ants after the molasses solution in the soil was when the mixture got on a few leaves. I have ants under my pots tho as they are just sitting on dirt. The solution poured into the soil was done after the plant had been planted. Believe it or not, I could tell a noticable difference in a week with the plants.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WBF

· Registered
Joined
·
20,349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Justin! Will you repeat the milk/molasses application throughout the growing season? Or just a one time deal early in the season??? I appreciate you sharing the info!
 

· Senior Member
Joined
·
1,533 Posts
Thanks Justin! Will you repeat the milk/molasses application throughout the growing season? Or just a one time deal early in the season??? I appreciate you sharing the info!
You're Welcome! I may add the concoction another time in the year. More than likely it will be done after the plants die off. Milk has great properties for being a fungicide and some question how beneficial adding it to the soil is from what I read but it does help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WBF

· Senior Member
Joined
·
1,533 Posts
Curious if anyone is experiencing any blossom drop?
I am having a few blossom drop but I'm guessing that has more to do with the heavy rains that we have been getting. Whether that is killing the flower or knocking off all the pollen and not allowing the flower to be fertilized. I have some plants loaded with tomatoes and while others are coming along a little slower.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WBF and Vikestand
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top