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First duck boat build

1064 Views 31 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  BC-Buck
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EDIT: Decided to make this thread a build thread/help/suggestion spot. I want to update it as I go and see what I started with vs where I end up. Thanks in advance for tips and support.

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BACK STORY: 2022 was my first year waterfowl hunting. Fell in love pretty hard, decided I wanted my own boat so I can go (easier) whenever I want. Found this on facebook market place and decided I wanted it for the price. 1988 1648 Lowe with an Evinrude 30 hp tiller. I asked all the questions (not my first boat). Seller was honest; dry rot tires but thread good, not sure if you will make it home going 70 on I-70. Well I blew a tire about 6 miles outside columbia. Couldn't have been much more convinent than it was. I jacked it up and took the blown tire off. Spare was so rusted on I couldnt get it off. So I dropped the boat and ran to walmart 6 miles away and bought 2 tires on rims. Get back to boat, tire wont go on, was on a grade on side of high way and jack was maxed. Let all the air out of the tire and get it on. Luckily I was thinking and had my Ryobi portable air compressor. Filled tire and was on my way. Pulled over next exit and changed the other tire. Made it home to begin my project.


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RIPPED TRANSOM OUT:

You think I should grind that lip off and just make most of that backing transom/wood? It would be way easier to cut and replace. I've seen a lot of boats like that. Don’t want to mess up and do something I shouldn’t. I don’t see that it adds a great deal of strength as is.


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You need that angle to bend over the transom for strength.I did one and took the aluminum half way down the transom were the motor bolts/clamps on.
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I would trim that lower bracket down, same with the side pieces Install the transom board/material up into the top bracket, run bolts though the transom in several places and bolt a metal plate where the motor clamps are
Of course water proof where bolts goes through transom from the outside

bolts 1/4 inch with 1 to 1.5 inch fender washers inside and outside and use 2 part epoxie like jb weld on the outside to seal them or similar
transom work sucks. don't cut any aluminum as others have said, it's necessary to have that lip for structure. don't use pressure treated plywood either, it'll corrode the aluminum. marine plywood and some sort of penetrating oil and a top coat then slide it in mark your holes and drill them out then treat them as well and then assemble. stainless steel fasteners only.
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REMOVED SEATS TODAY:

What does a guy do about this?
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Keep digging if wanna fix right.
I personally would want plenty of flotation in it so I would replace the foam under the seats. As DonJuan said, keep digging. I did a little rehab work on our pond jon a few years ago and got some good info over at tinboats. Haven't looked in awhile but it might be worth your time.
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I personally would want plenty of flotation in it so I would replace the foam under the seats. As DonJuan said, keep digging. I did a little rehab work on our pond jon a few years ago and got some good info over at tinboats. Haven't looked in awhile but it might be worth your time.
I’ll second trapper’s recommendation on tinboats. There is a lot of good info over there and some cool builds as well.
MISC PROGRESS:

The lip I asked about in the first post was just riveted on. I drilled out the rivets to make replacing the transom easier. Will put back with stainless bolts and lots of sealant. Also today I didn’t have much time so I took the tail lights and side runner boards off the trailer.

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Put submersible LED lights on the trailer. They are the only way to go.
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I 2nd the LEDs
Decided on new hub assemblies with new bearing buddies. Almost time to paint
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Ran out but looking good after 3 cans of rust stopper.
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Nice! Looking good
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Went to put the new hub assembly on and it seems like it’s too short for the spindle. This was what orileys said I needed. Any ideas?


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talked to a buddy and think I have it figured out, found some longer assemblies to try
I would put new bearing and races in original hubs. Enjoying your rebuild post.
transom work sucks. don't cut any aluminum as others have said, it's necessary to have that lip for structure. don't use pressure treated plywood either, it'll corrode the aluminum. marine plywood and some sort of penetrating oil and a top coat then slide it in mark your holes and drill them out then treat them as well and then assemble. stainless steel fasteners only.
Good info. Where do you buy marine plywood?
Good info. Where do you buy marine plywood?
A few places in St Charles have it in my area. Lumber stores typically have it or can order it, big box stores won't know what you're talking about I'm betting.
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