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The only pitfall is that you can’t charge them below freezing temps. They have a heated model, but it was a couple hundred more per battery. They are light so pulling them and bringing them inside to charge isn’t a big deal if need be. If you don’t fish during the winter time then it really doesn’t matter anyways.
This is news to me. I keep my boats in an unheated pole barn, and do my charging there. I fish all year as long as the water isn’t hard on top. Need to research this before I make a change on battery technology.
 

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This is news to me. I keep my boats in an unheated pole barn, and do my charging there. I fish all year as long as the water isn’t hard on top. Need to research this before I make a change on battery technology.
It just depends on which model you get. The more expensive models may have a built in heater to keep them above freezing while charging OR have protection built in the BMS that doesn't allow them to take a charge when they are below freezing. The Ampere Time batteries that I have are cheaper because they don't have those features. If you want to charge below freezing like you've always done then look in to a heated lithium battery, but expect to pay quite a bit more. If they last a decade like most say they will, the extra cost will be minimal when spread out over the lifetime of the battery and be far more convenient when charging is sub freezing temps.
 

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When i was looking at batteries I read several things on the charging below freezing. which is why I was a little hesitant on the lithiums as my boat is outside 24/7 wit an auto charger connected. I always fish when it is above freezing and the initial charge after fishing it would be above freezing, just whenever the charger would kick on when needed when it is 10 degrees out had me worried. But what I have read is they work alot better then lead when it is cold out
 
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The below freezing part was of some concern to me but I bring my boat home in the winter so not really a big deal. And, when I'm on a trip and it's cold, I don't have to worry about charging for 3 or 4 days so there is that.
 

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Great info @seth_turner_04 seems like we all are learning something
You do know all this info is mute unless we know what brand and model boat these are going in.

Just like you do not shoot Remington bullets in a Winchester gun
 

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Mine is an Excel Bay Bay Pro 220. :cool:

Wiring 3 new batteries in series under that center console sucked. I'll sell the boat before I do that again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
@Dafish it's a ranger rt198p with a Merc 150 decided to go the aluminum route

Huge upgrade from what I had, main selling point was the amount of room this thing has, still a bass boat but the decks are monstrous compared to what I had. 3 adults in the old boat we were cramped so we took care of it. And it fits in the garage!!!!

Only have had it in the water for 3.5hrs to start breaking it in weather hasn't been nice since then. That's the best I have for pics, lost half the decals on that trip but it's an easy fix just waiting in line so I can get them put back on. Bad sticker or something and once the water grabbed it was all over.
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Mine is an Excel Bay Bay Pro 220. :cool:

Wiring 3 new batteries in series under that center console sucked. I'll sell the boat before I do that again!
Sounds like the 36v batteries would be right up your ally in that case. They cost more, but you can get your 36v and only have to deal with one battery. If you need more juice, you could add a second and wire it in parallel with the other to double your run time. If I ever come across a good deal on a 36v Ultrex, I may be going this route myself since I can only fit three batteries in my bilge (one for cranking and two for the trolling motor). A lot of people say a single 36v 60AH battery is plenty even if you fish tourneys and run the trolling motor hard, but I think I'd feel better having two just in case one has issues. That's the perk of running multiple 12v batteries in series. If one dies, you can always throw in a 12v lead battery to get you by. You can't just go out and pick up a 24v or 36v battery.
 

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K, so I have a Lowe st175. 75hp Merc. All 12v. I currently just run a regular interstate battery. One for starting and one for trolling. If I don't charge it every night I WILL run out of juice. Are you saying a lithium would run multiple days?
 

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What does boat brand and model have to do with the kind of batteries you stick in them? People are running lithiums these days in every brand out there.
Nothing, I just wanted to see a picture of his boat.. :LOL:
 
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K, so I have a Lowe st175. 75hp Merc. All 12v. I currently just run a regular interstate battery. One for starting and one for trolling. If I don't charge it every night I WILL run out of juice. Are you saying a lithium would run multiple days?
It's due to how the discharge rates work with lithium batteries. With lithium, you essentially have full power or no power. With lead acid, the voltage drop is noticeable and your trolling motor will become weak once they are drawn down to around 50-60%. Your typical 27-31 series lead acid battery is equivalent to a 50AH lithium. A 100AH lithium is like having two lead acid batteries in one. A 50AH lithium is smaller than a 27-31 series battery and the 100AH are the same size. You can usually fit a pair of 50AH in the same space that a single 31 series battery will fit, which is handy if you are tight on space and want to use a higher voltage trolling motor, but stick with 12v batteries versus going with a single 24v or 36v battery.

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In the past when I had 29 series lead batteries from Walmart, I'd notice the trolling motor getting weak by the end of a tournament day. With a pair of 100AH lithiums, my trolling motor is still as strong at the end of the day as it was at the start.
 

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Seth: I tried to get the 36V from Dakota Lithium. They said they shipped it to me but somehow it ended up in Colorado? So, back to square one with 3 wired in a series. As painful as it was, I was going to have to get a single housing for the 36V under that console and then rewire. It was probably as easy just getting the 3 of them in there and then wiring blindly, or almost blindly. It would have been much easier if I could have just sat the wires on top of the post and then tightened. For some reason they are all sideways and require you to hold onto both sides, which was nearly impossible in my case in that you couldn't see what you were doing and there wasn't enough room to get in there to do it.

90: Yes, it is all or nothing as Seth says. But, you can flat run multiple days because I've done it. Now, I have heard of a few people using lithiums for cranking, but it really isn't recommended or widespread just yet. But, for a trolling motor battery, I can't see how you can go wrong.
 
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