Pretty easy to make... You can take some old lumber and make some boxes about 8-9" square (inside) and a foot long. Cut some notches on each side for your springs to slide into. Put some wire on the back of the cubby box to allow them to see in but prevent the **** from coming in from the back.

Now THIS is the most important part of making head catches instead of front leg catches the often result in pull outs... Just inside the jaws of the set trap, run a 3" drywall or deck screw up through the bottom of the cubby. This is where you will place your bait. You DO NOT want it too far back or the **** will try to reach in with his front foot and hit the trigger. If you put a chunk of fish pushed down on the screw, it is not easily removed and if it isnt too far back, even if he does reach in with his foot, he wont trip the trigger if you just bend the trigger wires back toward the inside of the cubby. What the **** will eventually do is grab the bait with his teeth and then hit the trigger with the top of his head, launching the conibear right over his noggin. I catch big ***** with no problem in 120 and 126 conibears and rarely have a front leg catch or pull out since I started setting the bait up front on the screw.

 

Here is another a fella made on youtube but like you said I'd put the bait just inside the box and have an opening at the other end so the **** could see through making him less leery of the box.

 

Here is another a fella made on youtube but like you said I'd put the bait just inside the box and have an opening at the other end so the **** could see through making him less leery of the box.

definantly make the spring notches narrower with a "v" cut on the inside for spring clearance. You want the trap to be sort of wedged in so the **** doesnt pull the whole trap out before he decides to stick his head in.

BTW, I would use 120's instead of the 5" jaws if you havent purchased them already. You will be less apt to catch someones dog which is also why you should be very selective as to where you set them. If you have some 110's you can just add a spring.

 

I can also say from experience that the deeper boxes like in the video will catch fewer *****. You will want to have a bottom in them too.

12" total length is just about right. I made mine from 1" rough sawn lumber and attach the trap right to the cubby. This is all you need to anchor them unless you are in an area that floods, then you will want to secure it so it doesn't float off if you get a heavy rain.

 

Thanks guys. How far back in the box can the trap be placed? I assume there is a tradeoff between catching **** and keeping a dog out. Dogs is a mild concern. I have seen tracks that are likely the neighbors brittany. I'd let them know to keep it home.

 

The trap goes right at the opening... No worry on a brittany it may snap the trap and get the crap scared out of it but it wouldn't hurt the dog. Small beagle could be bad though... That's why I'd go with a 4 1/2" instead of 5". We don't make ***** in MO too big for a 4 1/2" jaw spread. Some would probably try to dispute that I've caught a truckload of 20-24 lb ***** in them over the years.

One thing I forgot to add is I like to put a 2x2 screwed to under the bottom of the cubby at the front to make the cubby lean back and raise the front opening up a tad.

 

See I'm the opposite. I put my bait back in the box. I dont put it right behind the jaws or the trigger. Not once have I had a pull out or a paw catch. If my trap is snapped its wrapped around some critter be it a ****, grinner, or stinker. Not to say it wont happen sometime but it aint happened yet. I do put mesh wire on the back for 2 reasons. The scent wafts better and it makes the box lighter. Not much lighter but a little. I also built the top so it comes out over the opening and I tilt the whole front of the box up by propping it on a stick of some kind. Personally I dont see why a **** would try and reach in to get a bait it knows it cant reach. I've caught some big boar **** right behind the ears in them 155's. The best thing bout them boxes is the critter is dead, dry, and clean.

 

See I'm the opposite. I put my bait back in the box. I dont put it right behind the jaws or the trigger. Not once have I had a pull out or a paw catch. If my trap is snapped its wrapped around some critter be it a ****, grinner, or stinker. Not to say it wont happen sometime but it aint happened yet. I do put mesh wire on the back for 2 reasons. The scent wafts better and it makes the box lighter. Not much lighter but a little. I also built the top so it comes out over the opening and I tilt the whole front of the box up by propping it on a stick of some kind. Personally I dont see why a **** would try and reach in to get a bait it knows it cant reach. I've caught some big boar **** right behind the ears in them 155's. The best thing bout them boxes is the critter is dead, dry, and clean.

I'm using 120's and 126's... 4 1/2" jaw spread. I'm guessing a **** knows he can't fit thru to crawl inside my boxes to get a bait in the back but he can stick his head in a few inches to grab the bait. Since I bought DP'S they don't get used as much but I have about 70 of them made up and thru trial and error have had the best results with what I described. I catch an occasional grey fox and mink in them too, which a DP won't catch. They take up more space but catch fur on the trapline.

 

I can see em reaching with that smaller trap. A **** knows where he can and cant go. In fact with that smaller trap I'd bet you're right with your bait placement. I haven't caught anything but ***** and grinners yet but hope maybe a mink will stumble into one one day. I doubt he'd get caught in that big of opening though unless it just happened to jump into the trigger. I bend mine back into the box slightly too. Actually I need to get some new triggers. I got way too much slop in mine. Lots of guys say the boxes are a pain in the butt to haul around and they are. I think the relaxed trap check time and the fact that the ***** are dry, clean, and dead make up for it though. Its a tradeoff.

 

Thanks guys. Lots of good tips. I plan to build a dozen or so for this fall. Beards - how long do you make your boxes?

Driving a stake to hold the trap? Do you do anything to keep the box from being tipped?

 

This is deplorable. You are going to get more than dead raccoons.

 

This is deplorable. You are going to get more than dead raccoons.

Yeah hopefully they'll catch mink too.

 

Yeah hopefully they'll catch mink too.

You know very well more than that. Don't blow manure my way.

 

You know very well more than that. Don't blow manure my way.

Well Eric, I guess if dogs owners didn't let them run on other folks property they wouldn't get caught in traps now would they?

How's that for no BS.:wave:

 

Well Eric, I guess if dogs owners didn't let them run on other folks property they wouldn't get caught in traps now would they?

How's that for no BS.:wave:

You want paid for a 3 dollar **** or do you want to pay for the lifetime worth of my dog ? Bucket traps are a lazy slob trappers method now with the extended size trap. There is no argument to these statement.

 

You want paid for a 3 dollar **** or do you want to pay for the lifetime worth of my dog ? Bucket traps are a lazy slob trappers method now with the extended size trap. There is no argument to these statement.

If I am using a legal method of trapping on my property (or property where I have permission to trap) and your dog trespasses on said property and gets caught in one of my traps, it won't cost me a dime. Might cost you a vet bill though.

Trappers spend a significant amount of time and money in building traps, setting traps, running lines, etc. definitely not a "lazy slobs" sport and last I heard ***** were going for around $14.

Some would say having a dog do your work is being lazy.

How about that, there IS an argument to your statement:

 

And... Subscribed op:

 

I know everytime I take my dog to the woods I'm taking a chance of not bringing him home at the end of the hunt. There are dangers everywhere. He could chase a **** across a road and get smacked, he could fall through the ice on the river, he could climb a leaning tree and fall off, he could get pinched in a trap......any number of things could happen. Its a chance I know is a possibility but one I take because I love the hunt......as does my dog. If you are unwilling to take that chance, dont unsnap your lead. Its as simple as that. To imply that I should or should not do something that is legal on my own property because your dog might get into it is the very definition of stupidity. If you dont want trouble, dont turn your dog loose and go looking for it

 

If I am using a legal method of trapping on my property (or property where I have permission to trap) and your dog trespasses on said property and gets caught in one of my traps, it won't cost me a dime. Might cost you a vet bill though.

Trappers spend a significant amount of time and money in building traps, setting traps, running lines, etc. definitely not a "lazy slobs" sport and last I heard ***** were going for around $14.

Some would say having a dog do your work is being lazy.

How about that, there IS an argument to your statement:

see you in court, I hope your brother-in law is not a dimwit lawyer.

 

You want paid for a 3 dollar **** or do you want to pay for the lifetime worth of my dog ? Bucket traps are a lazy slob trappers method now with the extended size trap. There is no argument to these statement.

Where is anyone talking about bucket sets?

Last time I checked it was perfectly legal to use conibear traps on dry land as long as the opening didn't exceed 5"

 

Dogs can not trespass . How ever if said owner crosses property lines he is trespassing

 

eric thinks every trapper is after his dogs. In reality every trapper hopes eric doesnt live 100 miles from where he traps.

 

op:op:op:op:op:op:op:op:

 

Where is anyone talking about bucket sets?

Last time I checked it was perfectly legal to use conibear traps on dry land as long as the opening didn't exceed 5"

Have you seen the new regulations.

 

Have you seen the new regulations.

Enlighten me!