I planted some late milo that I had left over from putting my dad's in. I planted an acre of it about the first of July. It didn't rain at all so the first of August I planted turips and radishes. Well those shot up and so is the milo now. I don't think I'll get any seed heads from the milo so I would like to get rid of it to give the radishes and turips plenty of room to grow. What is your recommendation for killing my 3 to 6 inch milo?
Maddux
Another Herbicide Question
Clethodim I believe is made to kill grasses in brassicas, amd milo is a grass. Thays what I used on my sunflowers and it worked well.
I'll look into the Clethodim. I thought about mowing it also but the other acre of brassicas has more fescue in it than I would like to admit. I didn't get it disced good enough, and I thought I might spray the whole thing.
If you only habe an acre or so some places sell a small bottle for food plots called ARREST MAX. Its premixed with the crop oil you need. Its pricey, but if youre not going to use 5 gallons its worth it. Youll get prices all over the board for yhe clethodim, but the best deal I found was at Rural King, $50 a gallon or $110 shipped for 2.5 gallons. My local coop was almost $300 for 2.5 gallons.
Clethodim is what you want. Mowing won't do anything until the growing point gets above ground and that won't happen for a few more weeks given that it's only 6" tall right now.
Agree as per above. Grass-specific herbicides do not work to control broadleaf weeds or crops. Thats just the way it works. And most require crop oil concentrate or methylated seed oil for best results.
Once a herbicide is off-patent, it is liable to be sold under many brand names so I usually defer only to the active ingredient. Active ingredients of grass-specific herbicides are as follows, and likely in order as per availability and efficacy:
clethodim
sethoxydim
fluazifop - some of you ag guys will recognize this as Fusilade
quizalifop
haloxyfop
and some other less efficacious or less available ones. It should be noted that these herbicides are slow to work... 2 or 3 weeks minimum for best results to be seen so keep that in mind.
Hmmm... someone should write an article about various herbicide modes of action and applicability in food plotting. :thinking:
Once a herbicide is off-patent, it is liable to be sold under many brand names so I usually defer only to the active ingredient. Active ingredients of grass-specific herbicides are as follows, and likely in order as per availability and efficacy:
clethodim
sethoxydim
fluazifop - some of you ag guys will recognize this as Fusilade
quizalifop
haloxyfop
and some other less efficacious or less available ones. It should be noted that these herbicides are slow to work... 2 or 3 weeks minimum for best results to be seen so keep that in mind.
Hmmm... someone should write an article about various herbicide modes of action and applicability in food plotting. :thinking:
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