Missouri Whitetails > Other Hunting Topics > Trapping/Furbearing > HOW TO:Homemade dog proof trap pics


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Old 02-09-2011, 10:21 PM   #1
Jeremy
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Default HOW TO:Homemade dog proof trap pics

1 3/4" exhaust pipe. 10 dollars for 12' stick.
Spring for a combine, 2.00 at orchelins
everything else I had laying around the shop

start with a 5" length of pipe
draw a centerline straight down the tube, this will be your reference line for all drilling.


make a ring from #9 wire the same diameter as the pipe, wrapping the wire around a 1" impact socket, overlapping the ends, cutting with a cutoff wheel then weldig the ends together works for me



weld the ring to the pipe.



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Old 02-09-2011, 10:28 PM   #2
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:28 PM   #3
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Lay out the measurements on the pipe, anyquestions here, u2u me



cut the slots for the trap catch wire with a cutoff wheel. #9 wire will be used for this part as well. The wire is twice as thick as the cutoff wheel, so 2 cuts will be needed for each slot.



drill 2 , 5/16 holes for the slot and clean up with a 5/16 carbide bit. Drill hole for the spring, I use 3/8 bolts.



bolt the spring to the pipe

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Old 02-09-2011, 10:32 PM   #4
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put the pipe in a vice and bend the spring to meet up with the slot. this is where yull need to bend the spring to fit. works best if its just a hair short..by about 1/16" or so.


bend the other side the same way, overlapping the spring ends. I tack weld them together, somepeople leave them be and let the wire hold them together. i prefer a weld.



wrap a piece of #9 wire around a 3/4 impact socket to make the catch into a U-shape. fits perfect inside the tube



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Old 02-09-2011, 10:36 PM   #5
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put the catch wire into the slots, and hold the spring back with a vice grip. 2 people needed here, or alot of ingenuity with a vice...
where the wire meets the spring is where youll need to wrap it around.





trigger, i use a piece of 1/8" thick x 2.5" long x 5/16' wide
dimensions where to drill hole are on the pice in the pic

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Old 02-09-2011, 10:39 PM   #6
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above pic says 1" on the left, 1 3/4 on the right of the hole

put a piece of #9 wire through the hole, put the longer side into the trap slot, put the trigger right in the middle of the slot, weld the wire to the pipe...allowing the trigger to move up and down freely



using whatever flat scrap you have around, make a plate for the latch mechanism to attach to. extend it 5/16" or so past the spring when pulled back.

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Old 02-09-2011, 10:46 PM   #7
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depending on what you make the latch with, you either need to drill a hole, or slot for the trigger latch. I make my latches from 3/16" stainless steel round stock and smash the trigger end flat with a biggum hammer


after the latch is attached, push it back towards the piece that it hooks to, mark it, and slot it with a die grinder

should look as such when set



weld a bottom plate on it (i ise a washer, then weld a stake. long bolts work, so does rebar, threaded rod..whatever.

paint, dye..leave to rust..up to you





3-4 dollars in materials.

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Old 02-09-2011, 10:47 PM   #8
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dont forget to add a spot to attach chain or cable (thats why i use bolts as stakes)

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Old 02-09-2011, 10:55 PM   #9
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Looks good , how heavy are they and can you find a smaller spring than what u use ?
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:01 PM   #10
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not all that heavy...i might just grab the fish scale and weigh one. I would say theyre just a couple ounces heavier than a grizz.
spring, thats about the smallest i could readily find, with a decent price. I've heard of guys using springs from coil spring traps, but at 4-5 dollars a pop, kind of defeats the savings by making them yourself once you start buying a bunch of more expensive stuff. the tension on this spring i used as almost identical to a grizz as well. a little ugly, sure...but definitely functional



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